Wednesday, September 07, 2005

Clip-on risers for no cost *F4

Submitted by Walter Siegmund

MV Agusta Handle Bar Mod

1) Place bike on rear stand.

2) Remove front fairing. On each side forward just inside the curve in the nose bodywork is a 5 mm hexbolt that goes in at an angle. It’s about 50 mm long. Remove both bolts, left and right. Stand in front ofthe bike facing aft and grab the fairing in thevicinity of where those bolts were. Lift up at a 30-45degree angle and pull backwards towards your gut. The entire fairing comes off as a unit, mirrors and all. No wiring to worry about. Takes a bit of muscle.

3) Drape a rag/towel over the air intake cover on bothsides.

4) Using either a 12mm wrench or socket, break open very slightly one at a time, the banjo bolt on thebrake and clutch master cylinder, just enough torotate the fitting forward about ¾” of arc. Retorque the banjo bolt. A little fluid will come out so make sure all is cleaned up as very harmful to finish.

5) Starting on either side, remove the two handlebar pinch bolts (5mm) that go through the bar clamp. These bolts are two different lengths but it’s obvious which goes where.

6) Remove the master cylinder clamp bolt (5mm). Disconnect the electrical leads. (Brake side: twowires with spade connecters, clutch side: one plasticsnap connector.) Open clamp and remove mastercylinder/ lever/ reservoir. Let drape over air intakecover.

7) Remove handlebar from bar clamp. Take a wood doweland a rubber mallet and gently pound the bar out ofthe clamp and let drape over the air intake cover.

8) Remove the bar clamp from the fork tube. Remove the(5mm) bolt. The clamp is hinged on a locater pin. Letthe clamp lower out of the locater hole and removefrom bike. Mark each clamp as you remove it as O.E.L.or O.E.R. on the inside surface.

9) Take the clamp to your well lit, towel covered workbench. (reason for towel. Will shortly become clear).Each clamp is hinged on a pin that has a protrudingtip that goes in the locater hole in the bottom of theupper triple tree. This pin is retained by a clevis. On each clamp, remove the pin and replace from the opposite direction as stock. The best way to remove the clevis so you can reverse the pin is to take alarge flat blade screwdriver and slowly push the clevis out of the groove in the pin. The towel is there in case you push to fast; the clevis comes offand flies. If it lands on the towel it won’t go far.Without the towel, it could bounce and then you are s.o.l. Once pin is reversed, press clevis back intogroove. Make sure it is home and clevis rotates withpin when pushed.

10) Take the O.E.L. clamp and mount it on the rightfork tube and the O.E.R. on the left fork tube. Makesure the locating pin is seated all the way up in the hole in the triple tree. You will now see that the hinged assembly is upside down. The two bolts that actually clamp the handlebar have to be installed from below. Do not over tighten ANY clamp bolts. They don’tneed much.

11) Now, on each handlebar you will see a metal pinsticking out towards the end. Remove pin from both bars. This pin is a locating pin for the brake and clutch assembly. This will take lots of elbow grease.For the life of me, I don’t know why Mv has a locatingpin for the clutch/brake controls. Crazy. Everybodyhas a different preference for lever elevation.Anyway, remove the pins.

12) Open up the throttle cable housing on the bar (2-5mm bolts) and remove the lower portion. Leave the upper portion on the bar. This is the part the throttle cables enter into. Do not let the cables comeoff the white plastic “sprocket” inside this upper portion. The lower portion that you removed has a protruding pin in the area that mate with the handlebar. File this pin flush with the arc of the housing. Reattach the lower housing to the upper parton bar.

13) Put both handlebars back into the handlebar clamp on the bike. Before you do this, you will notice that the handlebar has a concave locating groove for thelonger of the two bolts that go in this clamp. That groove has to be aligned with the hole for that bolt. Little tricky as it has to be exactly aligned both for distance and rotation. Lightly grease the inside ofthe handlebar clamp, and using the rubber mallet; gently pound the handlebar into the clamp. Initial alignment is best achieved by shining a flashlight down through the hole while tapping the bar in. You will see the groove through the hole as it comes into place. Then, while pushing up on the bolt from below, rotate the bar a little until the bolt goes home. Tighten both bolts, short and long. You will not be able to get to them once the brake/clutch assemblies are installed.

14) Install clutch and brake assembly adjusting elevation of lever to suit, attaching the electrical lead connectors prior to final clamping. It’s a good idea at this point to make sure those connections are sound. Turn on the ignition. Test the brake light andpush the starter button to make sure it turns over.

15) Reinstall front fairing. You’ll see that the mirror support bracket has a locating pin that goes in a hole on the receptacle on the bike. The fairing takes some muscle to reposition. You will hear it snap into place. Before you replace those 50mm long bolts, turn on ignition and make sure the directional lights in the mirrors work. If not, you are not home in position with the fairing.

16) Now, as you rotate the bars SLOWLY full left and right lock, you will notice that the throttle cables, if the housing is in the O.E. position, just touch the inside of the fairing/screen at full left lock. Rotate the throttle cable housing rearward just enough so that at full left lock, it doesn’t touch the fairing.Tighten throttle housing bolts (5mm). Don’t overtighten.

17) Check the alignment of the master cylinder hose fittings and make final adjustment if necessary for proper hose routing. On the brake side, alignment should be such that the hose goes down equidistant between the fork tube and inner air duct housing. The clutch fitting should be far enough forward that the hose does not bind on the fork tube.

18) Bleed your brake and clutch lines. If you were careful when you slightly loosened the banjo bolts, might not be necessary. But never hurts to bleed those lines.

19) Ride and enjoy a more comfortable position withgreater leverage.

-edited JamesC


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